How to Lay Tile Like a Pro

Source: jocic/Shutterstock.com

Laying your own tile can save you a huge amount of money, but many people are concerned about uneven, messy results. However, with the right tools and some careful planning, there’s no reason why you can’t learn to lay tile like a pro.

Materials & Tools For Tile Installations

The basic materials you need are underlayment, adhesive, tiles, and grout.

Underlayments are applied to the subfloor to prepare it for tiling. The two main types of underlayment are cement board, or backer board, and uncoupling membranes. Cement board offers great mechanical bonding between the subfloor, thinset and tile, creating a sturdy installation. Uncoupling membranes provide a structural and flexible layer between the subfloor and tile. Uncoupling membranes are recommended over wood subfloors to handle subfloor movement due to temperature and seasonal changes. Self-leveling compound may be required on uneven floors to ensure a sound tile installation.

The most common adhesive used for tile is referred to as "thinset" mortar. It is a combination of cement, water, and sand. Thinset comes in different varieties, including dry-set (unmodified) and polymer-modified formulas. The one you need depends on your substrate, your underlayment and your tile size, so always check the underlayment and thinset manufacturers’ recommendations. Polymer-modified thinset offers higher bond strength and flexibility for demanding installations; for many basic tile applications, unmodified thinset is an excellent choice for cost savings.

Once your tile is set and the thinset cured (usually a minimum of 24 hours after placing tile, per manufacturer instructions), you are ready for grout!

Before the Installation

Before starting to lay tile, you need to be aware of several factors:

• Characteristics and condition of your room & subfloor:
  • Is the subfloor sturdy? Is it level?
  • Are the walls square?
  • Be aware of floor transitions and doorways; will adjacent flooring be lower, even with or higher than your finished tile floor? Transition strips and trims can help.

This can help you decide what kind of underlayment you need to use. Make sure the floor’s surface is completely clean before applying the underlayment.

Then you need to plan your layout. After your underlayment is dry and ready, measure the size of the walls and look for the exact center of the room. From the center, start laying tiles and plastic spacers without any adhesive to see how they look (i.e. a "dry fit"). This is a critical step! You do not want to run into a layout issue in the middle of the installation.

Try to ensure that you do not finish a row with a sliver cut tile (less than half a tile). If this occurs, you can shift the entire layout over so you only have larger cuts at the ends, but with some layouts, a sliver cut may be unavoidable. In such cases, you can try to arrange for the sliver cuts to be "out of sight" or in minimal traffic locations. Plan out the order in which you will lay the tile. Divide the area into quadrants so you can finish in front of a door and you do not get tiled in.

1. Prepare materials

• Clean & dry the substrate and the tile (remove all dust with a damp sponge)
• Confirm final layout
• Make ready & accessible all tools (trowels, sponges, water buckets, knee pads)
• Once mixing begins...it is time to rock!

2. Mixing Thinset

Before mixing, make sure your tile and subfloor are both clean and dry.

To mix thinset, use the manufacturer’s instructions because you need to know the exact ratio of liquid and powder. It is important to note the "pot life" of your thinset; this is the amount of time you have to work with it before it stiffens too much and becomes unusable (often around 1 to 2 hours in the bucket, but you may notice it becoming stiff sooner in hot, dry conditions). Only mix as much thinset as you can use within that time frame, otherwise you will be wasting time and material.

Use the mixer attachment on your drill and start mixing the water and powder as per the manufacturer instructions. Let the thinset slake (rest) for the time listed on the bag, then remix briefly. Make the thinset in small batches to avoid overworking your drill and to avoid clumps & unmixed powder. Aim for a consistency similar to that of smooth peanut butter. Once the thinset starts to stiffen in the bucket, don’t add more water; throw it out and mix a fresh batch. Never throw thinset down the drain because it will clog your pipes.

3. Laying Thinset

Once your bucket of thinset is ready, you can start applying it to the subfloor.

• Work small areas at a time
• If installing over cement board or exterior grade plywood:
  • Use a damp sponge to lightly dampen the substrate. This will ensure the thinset cures properly and doesn’t lose moisture to the substrate.
• Use the flat edge of your trowel to scrape/key a thin layer of thinset into the substrate. (This is important to form the physical bond.)
• Next, with some additional thinset, hold the trowel notch-side-down at 45º and spread thinset in straight lines to avoid trapping air. The ridges need to collapse evenly for proper adhesion.
• Now it is time to back-butter the tile!

4. Installing Tile

When laying the tiles:

• Use the flat side of your trowel to key a thin layer of thinset onto the back of the tile
• Gently place the tile into the thinset. Move the tile back and forth, perpendicular to the trowel lines, to collapse the thinset ridges. After placing the first tile, lift it to check coverage. You want at least 80% coverage in dry areas and 95% in wet areas and on natural stone.
• Remember to use spacers between tiles, as these small pieces of plastic help create consistent gaps and grout lines.
• For large format tiles, tile leveling systems are recommended to ensure a flat & level installation.

5. Grouting the Tiles

Adding the tile grout is the last main step of tile installation, after the thinset has cured for 24 hours (per manufacturer instructions).

• Wipe down the tiles with a wet sponge, so there’s no dirt on the surface, and vacuum the open joints to ensure no debris remains
• Fill a bucket of clean water and get a clean sponge
• If you need to mix the grout, mix as per the manufacturer instructions
• Use a rubber grout float to work the grout into the gaps between the tiles until they are filled (you will notice the grout slightly rounded over when filled)
• Scrape off excess grout from the tile surface with the edge of the grout float, held at a steep angle and moved diagonally across the joints
• Let it firm up for the time on the grout bag before you clean the tiles with a damp sponge. (Rinse and wring out the sponge frequently to clean all of the grout)
• Work a small section at a time (about 3 x 3 ft). It is important to clean as much grout off the tile as possible

Shop Grout Tools

Transform Your Home with Contractors Direct

Laying tiles yourself can save you hundreds, if not thousands, on contractor labor fees. That said, you will quickly learn why and how those professional costs are justified... it can be very tough work!

Using this guide as your starting point, you can transform your home and lay a new tile floor with professional results. For your DIY projects, browse our tile tools and concrete and masonry tools.