No, the Tuscan SeamClips cannot be reused.
Tuscan SeamClip From Pearl Abrasive, Red Clips, 1/32" Joint10% Savings While On Special This Month!
*While Supplies Last
From the creators of the popular Tuscan Leveling System the new single-piece system that virtually eliminates lippage during tile installation.
Tuscan SeamClip Features
- From Pearl Abrasive is a 1 piece system that requires no tools to install or remove.
- With the popularity of large format tiles lippage has become more of a problem!
- Now with the Tuscan SeamClip single piece leveling system you can get the job done with no extra tools to buy.
- The thickness of the the Tuscan SeamClip is 1/32''.
- Most spacers up to a 3/8'' can be used with the SeamClip.
- Simply slide the base under the tile, close the wings on the side and after the installation has cured, use a rubber mallet to remove the top portion from the surface.
- Red SeamClip are for 3/8" to 1/2" thick tiles.
- For use on both walls and floors.
- Made in the USA with recycled material.
- Easy Removal!
Question & Answers
Yes, SeamClips are designed for use with marble, stone, ceramic, granite and some large format tiles from 1/8'' to 3/8'' in thickness.
Ratings & Reviews
Most Helpful Reviews
Pros - Fast install and removal. Hold tile in place well.
Cons - Not able to fine tune tile position like the original TLS. Higher cost per unit compared to TLS. No bucket like TLS, they just come in cardboard box.
We use these clips every time we install over-sized tile. Our installers say that they work great; very happy with this product.
I wish we had these clips 20 years ago when we first tiled our kitchen and bathrooms! What a huge timesaver! No more worries about each tile being level to align with each other at the joints. We just retiled our kitchen countertop with 12x12 granite tiles and felt it was so worth the investment to use these clips. They went in easy and they came out easy and every tile is PERFECTLY aligned! Why didn't I think of this!!!! They definitely are pricey, but soooooo worth it! Be sure to read the installation instructions so you don't end up with mortar surrounding them. It took us a few to get the hang of tilting them first, but then it was breeze. And don't skimp, we used two per side. It also helps with positioning the clips, if the mortar leans more towards the thinner side versus thicker. It makes them easier to slide under the tile's edge. If you stop for the day, be sure to allow a spot for the next clip to fit in the next day before it dries solid overnight! We also used the yellow Tavy 4-Corner View Spacers to keep the intersections all squared up. I can't say enough good about these clips… they took away the stress! Happy tiling!
I started calling these "magic clips" after just a few tiles. I had already laid about 200 sq ft of high-price 6" x 36" porcelain tiles without the clips, and it took a long time due to lots of back buttering trying to eliminate the excessive lipping common to large format tiles on imperfect floors. I worked hard to get flat floors as part of my prep, but could only do so much. Also, tiles this large will never be perfectly flat. Luckily I did some research for a "better way" to eliminate lipping. I would estimate that with the clips, it took me 1/2 as long to do the next 200 sq ft, and I had almost zero lipping. The guy at the tile store told me that the industry standard for acceptable lipping is the thickness of a credit card, which is about how well I did without the clips. Now that I've used the clips, I think credit card thickness lipping should be considered unacceptable and any pro should do much better. I found it interesting that the tile store guy told me that none of the local tile guys use any sort of clips or leveling products. They just get it as close as they can and take people's money for meeting industry standard (credit card thickness). They also use weights and other tricks that seem a bit archaic.
A few tips: 1) I ended up putting the clips at the ends, even though the mfr doesn't recommend. I also put a clip at any "T" joint ( I staggered my pattern to look like wood) and about the mid-point of any tile. 2) If you need to stop at any point and the mortar will be dry when you restart, you need to hollow out a section of mortar where you will be putting a clip the next day. Choose the locations with some forethought. 3) looks like the clip itself will give you less than a 1/32 grout line, so you will still need to use spacers. I used 1/16. 4) A rubber mallet worked best for knocking out the clips in the morning.
My back and knees thanked me for buying the clips since I spent much less time on the floor. My ego thanked me since I had almost zero lipping and the job looked better than the local pros would have done.